A “rule of three Rs” is gaining ground in a sector such as textiles and clothing, which, despite progress, is highly polluting. We selected some of most virtuous examples from the industry.

According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, in 2023, approximately 100 million tons of textile waste will be produced worldwide, 87% of which will end up in landfills or incinerators, and only one percent will be recycled.

The amount of textile waste is expected to increase further, reaching almost 150 million tons by 2030, according to various studies. Unfortunately, the fashion industry continues to push disposable products. However, there are brands that are choosing to take a new path, focusing on recycling, reusing, and repairing garments.

There is also a growing need for recycled fibers in the industry, thanks to the measures that the EU will soon impose for the Green Deal: a minimum percentage of recycled materials will have to be included in every new product. We have selected some virtuous examples to inspire a more environmentally conscious approach by everyone.

Innovera, like real leather

Some fibers are not made from biodegradable materials, but some fabrics are produced with substances that recycle raw materials that are potentially harmful to the environment. For example, Innovera resembles leather but is made using vegetable proteins, biopolymers, and recycled rubber. It has a renewable carbon content of over 80% and is 25% lighter and twice as strong as leather. It can be customized in color, feel, and pile. It is produced by the American company Modern Meadow.

In addition to supplying materials to the fashion and accessories industry, this company has recently entered into a partnership with Mercedes-Benz for its Concept AMG GT XX technology program. The aim of the partnership is to further develop this innovative material for series production and to set new standards for vehicle interiors.

The material chosen for this collaboration is a combination of chemically recycled AMG GT3 racing tires, plant proteins, and biopolymers. The recycling process is carried out according to the mass balance approach.

As it reproduces the main properties of the collagen found in leather, the material offers a level of design freedom equivalent to that of traditional leather and can be produced with different finishes, such as nubuck, full grain or suede, as well as in various colors and surfaces with different tactile sensations.

Being a boss of circularity

Hugo Boss has created Eightyards: based in Metzingen, Germany, it will reuse the group’s surplus materials. It focuses on business areas such as the resale, reuse, and recycling of the group’s textile surpluses to fashion customers and the transformation of unused fabrics into new products, such as clothing, tote bags, shoe bags, pencil cases, and pillowcases.

From Nike Grind to Nike Recreation
For 30 years, Nike has been running the Nike Grind program, which reuses shoes that would otherwise be thrown away. In this way, it helps transform production waste and end-of-life shoes into recycled materials for use in new models.

Since the project was launched in 1992, it has recycled approximately 66 million kilograms of unused shoe production waste, including rubber, foam, fiber, leather, and textiles, which it has collected, separated, and reused or transformed into new materials. In 2023, the Nike Recreation program was launched.

Through this initiative, the brand collects vintage pieces or warehouse leftovers from local markets and reuses them to create garments that are sold locally. These are limited-edition pieces, characterized by innovative design solutions, often created in collaboration with local designers.

The program began by redesigning old sweatshirts from Los Angeles and selling them in stores in the city. The project then expanded to other cities, such as London and Paris.

Chanel focuses on Nevold

Chanel has founded Nevold, an independent entity dedicated to circularity, whose name is derived from the abbreviation of Never Old.

It is a B2B hub that brings together an ecosystem of companies, start-ups, and academic partners around the goal of inventing, producing, and structuring the materials of tomorrow, incorporating recycled fibers and respecting the criteria of luxury excellence.

The new initiative involves three companies (L’Atelier des Matières, Filatures du Parc, and Authentic Material), committed to restoring the value of fabrics and leathers. The business unit could open up to new acquisitions and develop partnerships with alternative sectors, such as sports and hospitality, to ensure a second life for noble materials such as leather, wool, silk, cotton, and cashmere that are no longer usable in luxury.

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How Rereri is reinventing leather

Rereri is a new handbag brand founded by Franco Gabbrielli, an entrepreneur and leather accessory designer with a focus on sustainability. With this project, he creates handbags from luxury leather stock and production leftovers, assembled in unique combinations of materials and colors.

The result is handbags designed as one-of-a-kind, made-to-order pieces. They are currently available in three sizes: mini, medium, and large. To coincide with the latest Pitti Uomo, the brand has opened its first pop-up store at Piero Tucci, a historic shop in Via Gondi 4/6 R in Florence, which will be open until July.

Themoirè loves the environment

Themoirè, a project launched in Milan in 2019, offers bags made from new and eco-friendly fabrics obtained from pineapple leaves or apple industry waste. The bags are also made from natural materials such as cork and raffia, as well as recycled materials such as eco-fur and recycled cotton. All linings are made from 100% recycled materials, mainly PET plastic bottles, and the threads and inner labels are made from recycled nylon, some of which comes from fishing nets.

Fulgar: from tires to yarn

Fulgar, a leading Italian manufacturer of innovative and sustainable yarns, has created Q-Cycle, a fiber made from a polymer derived from old tires, a material that produces significant emissions: in the EU, only 1.37 million tons are recycled, a figure equal to 40% of those that accumulate.

Thanks to this fiber and other virtuous products, Fulgar has been chosen along with 12 other companies to complete the European T-Rex (Textile Recycling Excellence) project, funded by the EU and launched in 2022. This international initiative aims to develop a harmonized plan for closed-loop textile-to-textile recycling.

Re&Up’s textile-to-textile

Re&Up Recycling Technologies is a circular technology company that is part of the global holding company Sanko Group, which aims to redefine the paradigms of the textile-to-textile sector. The company produces new-generation cotton and polyester fibers that maintain the same performance as virgin fibers.

They are obtained by recycling cotton, polyester and PET fabrics, both from single-material fabrics and from a mix of fibers. Among the most recent projects is a collaboration with Puma, which is committed to using 30% recycled textile fibers by 2030.