At Kingpins Amsterdam, on 14th and 15th October, a new unconventional capsule collection will debut—Renegade Renaissance. The project originates from a collaboration between the Italian chemical specialist Officina39 and Gold Girl Co., a new fashion consultancy studio founded by Adriano Goldschmied’s daughters—Marta and Glenda.

The colab includes two conceptual garments that operate as material propositions—in part as fashion pieces, in part as an experiment, and in part as a manifesto. 

The two garments—Marble Dreams and Midnight Journey—are obtained by experimenting with new projects through  chemistry, textile know-how, and material development.

They have explored how materials can express ideas like, for instance, permanence, identity, ambition, and everyone’s life imprinting.

The Marble Dreams piece was created using marble dust for finishing garments. Despite marble is often tied with ideas like endurance and rigidness, as for classical sculpture, in this project it transforms into something intimately connected to the body. 

For Officina39, the experiment also points toward future, more scalable applications rooted in the same philosophy, by making longevity a creative value as well as a technical and commercial one.

“Marble has always represented permanence, history, and something built to outlast us,” says Marta Goldschmied, co-founder, Gold Girl Co. 

“We wanted to bring that idea into clothing and ask whether fashion can create objects that stay with us long enough to become part of who we are. Longevity, for us, is not only about durability—it is about meaning,” she added.

The Midnight Journey item is inspired by the unpredictability of scratch-and-win cards. It explores concepts like chance, choice, and the paths we take through life versus the idea that fortune is simply something that happens to us. 

Ambition, dedication, and perseverance, instead, become acts of authorship. The idea resonated strongly with Officina39, where innovation is built through experimentation, persistence, and the willingness to keep challenging established processes and markets.

“The starting point was the fantasy that one lucky moment can change everything,” commented Glenda Goldschmied, co-founder, Gold Girl Co. “But the garment turns that idea around. The path matters more than the winning ticket: fortune is also something we construct through the choices we make, the work we put in, and our willingness to keep moving,” she added.

Renegade Renaissance was born under Marta and Glenda Goldschmied’s creative direction, while Officina39’s role made their unconventional ideas become materially possible, using chemistry as a creative instrument and not simply as a finish.

“The most exciting brief for us is not ‘show us what this chemistry can do,’ but ‘this is the idea—can you help us make it exist?’,” said Andrea Venier, managing director, Officina 39. 

“Marta and Glenda brought a remarkably strong creative vision. Our job was to give that vision a material language. Marble dust, permanence, chance, and ambition are not conventional briefs for a chemical company—and that is precisely why they interest,” he added.

Gold Girl Co. is a fashion consultancy studio founded by Marta and Glenda Goldschmied. Their company works with brands across creative and product strategy, brand positioning,and market insight, thanks to their deep-rooted expertise in the fashion business and a particular obsession with denim. The two sisters’ new project’s mantra is “Old Enough to Know. Young Enough to Disrupt,” a formula that combines their knowledge of fashion with the determination to create something new.