In times of economic uncertainty sticking to reality and finding new directions in a disoriented market is indispensable.
Despite many insiders are complaining about the market situation, by visiting last Pitti Uomo edition held in Florence, in June 16-19, 2026, a vast selection of brands from different segments crowded the show. There was not just contemporary and classic menswear, but many different products reflecting a muultifaceted market. Jeanswear–from premium names like Tela Genova, Roy Rogers and Tramarossa to fashion-focused brands like Guess Jeans, Noir ’N’ Bleu along with traditional names like Mustang, to upmarket sportswear like Filson, Baracuta and Barbour to more functional ones like Save the Duck, Refrigiwear and Murphy & Nye, to a revisited version of I Go Out hosting unconventional brands like Demon, VTR, Alpenhaus, Norda and Zyphor, to name a few.
Such an open-minded approach indicates how the show wants to present a complete and wider offer from the market and its clear aims in being committed to support exhibitors and visitors by showing the best examples of what is changing and worth being noted, while stressing that they selected those taking their next step being determined to evolve.
Though, some clear elements are appearing again giving signs of where the market is going. Some clear references stand out in determining s/s 2027 like specific style tribes influencing fashion like surfwear, skating, punk and more, but also a clear matericness contaminating the world of tailoring. Discover the first chapter of my selection–to be followed by another chapter I will be posting soon.
Youth tribes define the future
As fashion has always been expression of real life and true change, many insiders are rediscovering worlds that have meant something for the youngest consumers as influencers of huge style evolutions on a broader level. As the present is not as clear and always more fragmented, many chose to revamp times and style tribes that truly made a difference
Surf is one of these big young movements that are influencing fashion strongly again.
This is the case of Sundek, the historical surf brand that was recently bought by BasicNet group. The brand was founded in 1958 and is the expression of a radical movement. “Surf was not a sport. It was a calling,” said Marco Boglione, co-CEO, Basic Net. Recalling the sound of Beach Boys, life in the open air, sunkissed days and greater inspiration. “Our way to revamp Sundek does not simple relate to making swimsuits. It is a lifestyle brand inspired by California. That this can translate into selling many swimsuits, but there is more as the brand must give a broader message.
“Our intention is to represent the true American aspirationalism that California represents. A wonderful place, made of coast, but also made of hinterland, hills, American history, Hollywood, motorbike, mountains. California is a dimension, probably an America in America, still different from the rest of the United States. Our idea is to offer a brand that speaks of a place where Sundek was born–California, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Hawaii–all that area that in some way represented a culture, and not simply the surf culture from the ’50s and ’60s, but a culture of rebels that wants to do away from American bourgeoisie,” he added.
Similarly Guess Jeans, the US brand that now is part of Authentic Brands Group, has opted for offering a special collaboration with Quiksilver, the popular surfwear brand also part of the same holding, presenting light blue jeans pieces, denim hot pants and shorts, and many collaboration items that bring to mind the spirit of US surfing, a style the youngest consumers are willing to embrace again.
Not less important is the discovery of punk as presented by DSM Kei Ninomiya, Pitti Uomo Special Guest designer, who presented a selection of punk looks, but reinvented the iconic elements of punk through mixes of tartan, denim, leather, but also lots of breakings, mendings, safety pins, studs and rivets, Mohawk hairstyles and rasta wigs added with a special soft touch of colorful flowers stating that punk is back but roughly gently.
Matericness, is the new cool
The market is always exploring new ways to experiment and reinvent materials. Among them, most interesting from this edition was “The Redefinition of Fadedness,” a project carried out by South Korean designer Jiyong Kim as the Special Guest of Pitti Uomo.
Despite the fact that in the past, faded garments were often regarded as “valueless,” Jiyong Kim has pushed ahead the levels of experimentation by discovering new aesthetics and possibilities within them. Within the installation hosted at Pitti Uomo, he presented a series of interpretations of his brand’s signature Sun-Bleach technique, a sustainable finishing technique he achieves after months of exposition of apparel pieces like coats, bomber jackets, tops, and other apparel pieces, but also sneakers, speakers, and e-bikes in the sun. The result are single exemplar pieces, always different and requiring no chemicals or electricity, but simply aged by exposition to the sun and weather elements.
The designer was an LVMH Prize semi-finalist in 2024 and received the 2023 and 2024 Samsung Fashion Award. He also collaborated with brands like Puma, Alpha Industries and Clarks.
Avant Toi, an always evolving Made in Italy apparel brand, is strongly focused on developing new material mixes, and special surface effects, has developed a new series of boxy pieces, including a blazer and shorts in white cotton poplin carrying subtle brown paint strikes that remind of burnt out pieces.
During the last show it disclosed a collection that explores a deep connection with the land and with artisanal craftsmanship, presenting an authentic, tactile menswear wardrobe.
The atmospheres of the Mediterranean scrubland—sand, oak, thyme, and myrtle—pervade the collection with weathered surfaces and natural tones. Raw-cut edges, mat stitches, weaves, and brushstrokes on coarse canvases define its s/s 2027 spontaneous and imperfect aesthetic, while ribbon-knit and cotton mouliné knits evoke the value of handmade craftsmanship. In particular salt becomes a creative element and a natural dye that leaves irregular, timeworn effects on cashmere knitwear.
Among others, Berwich, the Italian company specialized in producing high-quality trousers, has presented a collaboration with artist Sonja Quarone who created unique art pieces by pouring concrete on Berwich folded trousers creating new materic effects that let its trousers’ quality and high craftsmanship stand out.
Denim is stronger than ever
Various denim brands continue to represent a key element for many modern wardrobes, each one picking a specific aspect of a multifaceted material as denim.
Sunflower, a Special Guest of this Pitti edition, is a Swedish brand, whose denim selection is Made in Italy and is designed for a clientele looking for quality and style. The brand presents comfortable fit pieces in a wide range of denim variants—from raw, lightly rinsed denim to fully bleached, even featuring leather-like effects—in vibrant colors such as ochre, pink, and bright green, paired with leather coats and jackets, or blazer-and-pant suits with a relaxed elegance.
Among other elements, balance, calm, and material exploration take center stage for Nine In The Morning, giving way to a new, sophisticated minimalism. The collection explores a contemporary and relaxed aesthetic through clean lines, soft volumes, and natural textures. Each piece is the result of careful material research, prioritizing authentic surfaces, a worn-in feel, and lightweight constructions that convey comfort and natural elegance.
Tela Genova reinvents its wardrobe through workwear, military uniforms, and a sailor-inspired aesthetic with a lived-in feel. Selvedge denim remains at the heart of the season, becoming lighter and texture through various washes and blends of cotton, silk, and linen. They have created a limited series of 200 pieces in collaboration with Kuroki, as well as offering items made by dyeing the fabrics before they are sewn into garments, in collaboration with the historic Tintoria Giovanni Clerici e Figli, now in its seventh generation.
Dickies, the iconic workwear brand beloved by skaters, makes its debut following the ownership transfer from VF Corp to BlueStar Alliance announced in September 2025, offering a wide range of denim garments for men and women, targeting different retail categories and consumer segments—from younger shoppers looking for affordable products to those seeking premium items.
From one extreme to the other, Tramarossa, a high-end luxury denim brand, presented its dark-blue-toned garments alongside more affordable brands, as two brands from Campania showcase new solutions for a market focused on quality products at competitive prices. Noir ‘n’ Bleu is a women’s jeans brand offered in multiple color variations as well as a variety of materials such as linen and Tencel, while Seinse, a brand by Sorbino Group, offers a wide range of men’s products, including high-quality knitwear and denim in many styles.
Classic fashion, but never too classic
Classic men’s clothing has carved out its niche by redefining its identity with a modern approach that responds to market demands, while maintaining a strong focus on quality and craftsmanship.
Among these, Tombolini presented a selection of garments spanning its 60-year history during the event “Style Between the Field and the World,” a forum that connected the worlds of sports and contemporary tailoring.
It brought together athletes such as Beppe Signori, Fabio Galante, and Eugenio Zambrotta for an informal conversation focused on topics like everyday elegance, performance, and style. “We created Zerogravity, the most innovative and comfortable garments, perfect for being both elegant and comfortable at the same time,” said entrepreneur Silvio Calvigioni Tombolini, showing of the Zerogravity tuxedo in cashmere and silk that weighs just one kilo. “We were the first to create the world’s lightest fabric-only suit 12 years ago, and we’ve since expanded to running apparel made with sustainable materials and tailored details that are machine-washable,” he added. The occasion offered an authentic account of life experiences both on and off the field, highlighting how discipline, determination, and freedom of expression are shared values in both sports and fashion.
A different approach is what Pside presented while participating Pitti Uomo for the first time. This Italian brand was founded in 2025 by Federico Provenza, a Sicilian designer who earned a degree from IED Milan. He created it with the aim of integrating elements of streetwear with the aesthetic and construction codes of classical tailoring, developing a contemporary, versatile, and recognizable language.
Pside is a based upon a conscious study of classic style, reinterpreted through a modern lens and translated into the spontaneous lines of streetwear. The core of the project resides in the balance between these two identities: formal clarity, refined volumes, and tailored construction that merge with the comfort, informality, and functionality of urban culture.
The collection is aimed at both men and women, and includes T-shirts, shirts, denim pieces, trousers, coats, skirts, and dresses, all developed with particular attention to fit, functionality, and durability. It only uses GOTS-certified fabrics and deadstock materials, with the goal to promote a circular model of fashion.
Designer Antonio Marras hosted “Untailored: the blazer culture” at his boutique on Via degli Strozzi in Florence, transforming it into an experiential space dedicated to contemporary tailoring. For the occasion, the designer reimagined his blazer as a symbol of versatile and creative style.
During the event, seamstresses worked inside the boutique, focusing on customization, offering guests a firsthand look at the expertise and attention to detail that have always characterized the brand. Working alongside them, Marras participated in the event by crafting unique details and sharing with the public the process that brings the brand’s creations to life.
During Pitti Uomo in Florence, the first edition of “The Art of Tailoring & Craftsmanship – A Global Dialogue” also came to a close. This international event was promoted by the Le Mani di Napoli Association, an organization focused on promoting Neapolitan tailored clothing. In the prestigious setting of Palazzo Gondi, some of the world’s most influential figures in tailoring, textiles, craftsmanship, and manufacturing culture gathered.
In the presence of Pitti Immagine President Antonio De Matteis, the Association’s General Director, Annunziato Damiano, opened the proceedings with a particularly heartfelt and moving speech in which he highlighted the cultural, social, and human value of craftsmanship. Among the most applauded moments of the day was the presentation of the event’s partner textile companies—Brunello Fodere, Carnet, Fratelli Tallia di Delfino, and Piacenza 1733—which showcased creations dedicated to the city of Naples and the Le Mani di Napoli Association.
Among the most important topics discussed during the workshop were key issues for the sector, such as the highly responsible approach of those working in this field—for example, the importance of the on-demand model. Unlike fast fashion, which produces millions of garments that often remain unsold or end up in landfills, tailoring creates a garment only when there is already a customer who wants it. No stock, no waste.
The materials used by tailors consist primarily of natural fibers—such as wool, cotton, linen, and silk—sourced from controlled supply chains. These fabrics not only last for decades but also do not release microplastics during washing and are biodegradable at the end of their life cycle.
Furthermore, a tailored garment is designed to last. The inner seams almost always leave extra fabric, allowing the garment to be taken in or let out over the years, adapting to changes in the body rather than being thrown away.
Tailoring relies on a short supply chain that prioritizes valuing human labor. Choosing tailored garments means supporting local craftsmanship, eliminating emissions associated with long-distance transoceanic transport, and ensuring that those who make the suit work under fair and dignified conditions.