Disrupted reality—and denim—is a must. Diesel’s latest show held for Milan Fashion Week highlighted this trend for f/w 2026/2027.
The show took place in a scenario of complete disorder made up of around 50,000 pieces of archival Diesel memorabilia as a record of the brand’s evolution since 1978. The set was an immersive installation, with an abundance of repurposed objects from around 6,000 different categories.
Similarly, this accidental catwalk hoisted models wearing displayed unique denim and apparel pieces that were intentionally twisted and wrapped up. The effect was achieved thanks to a special baking of denim that releases permanent crease effects, as if the pieces looked like they had been picked off the floor.
“This collection is about waking up in a place, with no idea what happened last night, and you are the most glorious person ever. When you sneak away from the hotel room of the person who you don’t even know, you are truly at your best. These are super-wearable pieces for successful living, the essence of Diesel,” said Glenn Martens, creative director, Diesel.
Double-layer jersey tops seem rucked up as if thrown on, but they were designed to always keep that exact shape. Wrinkled knits have been purposefully boiled down from supersized and denim is treated with resin to make permanent creases, like the jeans have been worn all night and all day, over and over.
Some jeans are extra-long, with hidden vertical slits near the ankle, perfect for slipping through a stiletto heel. These are fastened by hook-and-eye closures for extra kink, and stretch denim hotpants look wrapped in an instant.
Fluffed-up alpaca and wool mix coats and jackets are unlined and unstructured. Felted tailoring is made from production scraps and industrial leftovers, all intended to be discarded. Intarsia knits have cut-out florals at the neck or hem, like the wool has been nibbled away. Pants often have new functionality, with pockets added at the hem, sitting over the shoe.
Velvet denim skirts have pumped-up volume, like nighttime that turns into day. Torn long-sleeve Diesel tour T’s and destroyed denim jeans are encrusted with crystals, then overlayed with a ripped-hem tulle top and skirt and trompe-l’oeil jumpsuits look like rucked-up T-shirts and skirts.
Textures and colors are wild as denim is flocked and fur coats look like a patchwork clash of multicolored rough-cut fronts. Printed pieces are foiled, the plasticization with its own pattern and the foil is then partially cracked open, to reveal the pattern beneath. Sometimes it’s a simple jersey top, or a wrapped dress. Other times, it’s a monster wrapped coat, as if our inner beings are caught in the moment of revelation.
