Rebel, rebel! The future of fashion lies here. Transcending tradition and discovering new perspectives beyond it is the key to trigger high-end consumption, along with a new hyper-decorativism, a more experimental mimicking of nature and a gentler and more self-caring daily sportiness.
That’s how s/s 2027 will be like, according to Premiere Vision, the Paris global trade show, that took place from 3 to 5 February 2026 in Villepinte. The show continues to testify to its commitment to redesigning new paths in fashion through picking unique highly valuable traditional craftsmanship and the ability to subvert its rules and define new creative paths.
We spoke with Desolina Suter, creative director, Premiere Vision, trend forecaster, style consultant, and tutor for universities and companies, about this next significant step that accompanies the show’s new alternative direction.
“This show’s edition wants to highlight how the exceptional craftsmanship of the hand can establish a dialogue with industrial craftsmanship. It is always a notion of dialogue and openness, how things can influence each other,” she explained.
While presenting interesting new materials and accessories for s/s 2027, this edition’s trend area—the Prospective Forum—reminded of three macro flower-shaped gazebos, implying how these new highly creative manufacts express the blooming of a new era that parts away from minimalism and also gets involved and inspired by different disciplines like beauty, fragrances, music, and highly creative patisserie, also participating in this edition’s show.
The three sections—Living Legacy, Organic Intelligence, and Active Know-How—displayed both innovative products available at industrial, along with exceptional fabrics, unique decorations, and new developments also including 12 exhibiting ateliers from the Maison d’Exceptions, a special section of the show that gathers together 22 artisanal studios from countries like France, Spain, The UK, Japan, India, and Brazil.
The trend area, as the show, purposely presented as a journey through many identities of savoir-faire and their geographies, exploring their capacity for dialogue and offering a focused exploration of Japan, Portugal, and France, to inspire new ways of thinking and creating. Starting from different grounds and experiences, the show presented how some true expert artisans can push boundaries and transform their savoir-faire, creating new dialogues between generations and cultures, showing completely new perspectives.
“What we are presenting here are exceptional manufacturing traditions, but especially speak about perspective. Here we are talking about trends that will influence the market in two years; we want to speak about evolutions. You have to capture the weak signs and how the world of fashion manages to appropriate it and transport it in a completely different dimension,” added Suter.
Betting on a Living Legacy
Among the creators with exceptional savoir-faire they hosted at the Prospective Forum, the Living Legacy section, Cecile Feilchenfeldt Knitwearstudio, an artisan specializing in developing and producing unique knitwear using exceptional yarns and inserts.
For the occasion, she presented a dress created in collaboration with the Matières Fécales fashion house.
They created a dress from silk flowers sourced from dormant stocks and knitted by the designer and her team. The piece embodies the search for beauty in imperfection through roses “in their most beautiful state, the moment they fade,” recreating burnt flower effects.
“This dress costs €80,000 and was designed by the same stylists who dressed Lady Gaga a few nights ago at the Grammy Awards. It is an example of rebellious appropriation of haute couture,” explained the show’s creative director.
“These artists’ work starts from a base of artificial flowers, but by the burning of these flowers at different levels, they created this special narrative on the dress,” explained the show’s creative director. “So from the great tradition of making flowers and burning them, it transports their ability to a completely different dimension and capitalizes on this savoir-faire d’exception.
According to a similar perspective, French, Spanish, Indian, Turkish, and many other fabric manufacturers interpreted flower motifs as seen, adapting such creativity from an industrial point of view. For instance, they interpreted them with macro-patterns, vivid hues, and innovative manufacturing techniques like 3D printing.
Retracing Organic Intelligence
The Organic Intelligence section hosted materials that set new biomimetic paths with materials, hand-feels, aesthetics, and processes that draw inspiration from the mechanisms of the living world.
“There is certainly a great influence from the organic world. In recent seasons we spoke about biomimetic, but before that there were new technologies like 3D printing and everything that can be developed with molecules, cells, new technologies, and bacteria that generates a dialogue between organicity and the super-current digital world,” explained Suter.
Among the examples on show, they showed very thin tulle tubes resembling some joyful and colored vegetal elements Cecile Feichenfeldt created a dress out of it.
Other examples include leather materials that recreate very thin laser micro-holes, creating new motives that resemble printing.
Atelier Sumbiosis, from France, has developed a series of natural-origin hues from Japanese traditional most ancestral techniques, like hues derived from invasive sea urchins. They developed them together with Sorbonne University to dye unique plissé fabrics.
Anne Lopez, owner of the Creatrice d’Univers French atelier, uses a lime-based mineral plaster, according to an ancient technique, and creates very special applications on a special gauge. The results are effects that remind us of flower petals, small drops, and micro-elements that seem to be shaped by the breath of wind. These effects can be applied on dresses, design objects, but also, for instance, on perfume bottles, as a recent limited edition series she created for Guerlain.
Another French studio, Marie Archambaud, has developed her distinctive approach by blending craftsmanship with textile goldsmithing. She embroiders lacework and cellular meshes that look like metallic fabrics that can be used as applications for accessories, garments, jewelry, packaging, and window displays.
Antonin Mongin, instead, is a design researcher from France who transforms rare and unusual fibers such as natural or synthetic hair, horsehair and blast fibers like hemp, flax or nettle and weaves materials for haute couture houses, luxury and ready-to-wear brands.
How Active Know-How bets on well-being
Another section—Active Know-How—brought a strong, playful, and pop influence to positioning diversion as a key creative principle.
While this section plays with creative freedom as a taste for play, it aims to rewrite the codes of everyday life.
In this spirit, the creations of Valentine H. Despointes presented at the Prospective Forum explore the diversion of styles and uses through a unique treatment of leather combined with a colorful, dreamlike aesthetic. Her abundant universe is populated by lush jungles or underwater worlds, stylized animals, and reinterpreted everyday objects; it deploys a rich imagination in which playfulness converses with strong technical expertise.
Mastering the savoir-faire of leather marquetry and leather covering, she works with hides sourced from the finest French tanneries, as well as high-end leather offcuts.
The same revolution is happening in sportswear. “When it comes to sportswear, the accent is definitely on free expression and a sense of well-being in which playfulness, comfort, and distinction naturally come together,” explained Suter.
“What we increasingly see are more non-activewear fabrics that capitalize on performances instead of activewear. In this section I see that more and more sports fabric manufacturers are moving more toward well-being rather than real performance,” she adds, implying how wool is becoming one of the key materials chosen for sportswear, as, for instance, there is more attention for yoga apparel than for climbing the Himalayas.
“I see more interest in fabrics that cure, that do good, and protect, and less extreme materials. The dimension of everyday is becoming always more important,” she continues, also stressing the fact that activewear is taking the place of casualwear and it can be worn at every hour of the day, including evening wear.
New joint ventures are changing the vision of activewear as, for instance, underwear can be worn in every outfit as decorative elements entering the sports world. Adidas is using contemporary tulle and embroideries also for men’s pieces. “Decorations that once belonged to a woman’s world transform sportswear into more decorative products than in the past,” said Suter.
These are some of the visions that appealed many insiders visiting the show capitalising their attention and catching their attention for the future.