Custo Barcelona, the funky and highly creative Spanish apparel brand, participated on the eve of Milan Fashion Week, presenting its latest f/w 2026/2027 collection. For the occasion, it focused on a less extreme and overdecorated collection than in past seasons, and, differently from the past, it didn’t present its men’s apparel line.
We spoke about the brand’s next strategies with Custodio Dalmau, creative director and co-owner of the Spanish fashion brand he cofounded with his brother David in 1981 in Barcelona.
How is Custo Barcelona evolving? I see that the collection presented fewer color clashes and material mixes. Is Custo taking a different direction?
The collection is a little more balanced. This evolution in fashion is a necessary change; otherwise, the wardrobe doesn’t evolve.
For this reason, for instance, we called this collection “We Own The Light,” a statement that emphasizes the idea of light as a symbol of energy, identity, and personal expression.
This way, the collection transforms light into an emotional language. For this season we explored an evolved femininity through chromatic fusions, experimental textures, and new light effects expressed by alternating transparency and opacity. We mixed layered tulle with iridescent details, voluminous sleeves, and fluid draping. We also played with artisanal laces and patchwork craftsmanship.
For the first time, you didn’t present any men’s looks. Why?
Yes, it’s true. We preferred to do so, as we will present our men’s collection in three weeks at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, on 20 March 2026. This is an addition for our brand that has been presenting its collection to New York Fashion Week since 1997.
The US market continues to be an important market for Custo Barcelona. How much does it count?
The US has always been the most important market for us. It represents about 40% of our sales.
Right now, the economy is much stronger in the US. The European economy, instead, is a little bit tired and suffering—but not only in fashion, in every segment.
For this, we all need to change our mindset and find new strategies to face this situation. For instance, in Europe, you need to stick to and follow specific rules. Everything is very complicated here. In America, instead, if you want to do something, you can act much faster.
Speaking about Europe, though, we hear that the Spanish economy is performing better than in other EU countries…
If you hear what the government says, it is certain that it is going well. But in reality, no, no.
Despite this, we will soon open a new store in Madrid, on Serrano Street, in May. This way we will reach a total of 15 monobrand stores. Until now there are 14—eight in Europe and six in the US.
Are there any new markets you want to enter?
Generally, thanks to e-commerce, you can sell all over the world. The youngest generations love to buy via cell phone. They are like this. At present, e-commerce accounts for 60-70% of our sales.
There is only one exception, though, as we are also focused on expanding further through physical stores in touristic locations. People are more willing to spend when they are on holidays.
Along with that, we continue presenting our collections through catwalk shows during fashion weeks or relevant cultural events in different locations, that, along with New York, Milan, and Madrid, include, for instance, Lima in Peru, Hong Kong, Mexico City, Cali, Singapore, São Paulo, and Barcelona, to name a few.
